Stretching westward from the lofty peaks of southern Snowdonia to the sandy beaches of the Cardigan Bay coast, the Dyfi Valley is one of Wales’ most celebrated. Encompassing Ceredigion, Gwynedd and Powys, this sizeable swathe of Mid Wales boasts staggering amounts of natural beauty as the River Dyfi flows from its source high in the Cambrian Mountains to its estuary at Aberdyfi (literally mouth of the Dyfi). En route, the river snakes its way alongside the Cemmaes Road, downhill to Mid Wales' biggest – and, unarguably, most historic – town, Machynlleth. And it is here, equidistant from the mountains and the sea, that you’ll find the perfect halfway-house for exploring this epic region – Llywn Lodgings.
Helmed by affable host Sarah Holgate, Llwyn Lodgings sees a spacious apple orchard given over exclusively to tent campers. There’s a refreshingly relaxed attitude to the pitching policy here – no regimented, segregated plots; no hard-standings for motorhomes; in fact, no vehicles permitted at all in the camping field. This car-free code means kids can roam freely in safety, building dens in the surrounding woodland, spotting red kites circling overhead or rabbits munching wind-fallen apples at daybreak.
Originally an 18th century inn which, now renovated, has three rooms accommodating weary walkers and cyclists drawn to the mountains, the site has the welcoming, inclusive feel of an eco-friendly retreat – an ethos that extends to the facilities on offer. The timber-clad shower block, for example, was constructed using wood from the surrounding trees (from where you can also source your firewood). There’s a lovely, round communal cookhouse with a trio of barbecues where guests can grill and gossip – a real lifesaver should the weather not read the script.
And speaking of weather, on a hot summer’s day, there’s nothing quite like a thirst-quenching taste of the apple juice pressed straight from the orchard. If you’re staying between September and October, you might even get to see the juicing in action. Oh and that delicious aroma hanging tantalisingly in the air? Freshly baked sourdough bread produced by the farm’s resident artisan bakers and available to buy onsite.
Offsite, there’s heaps to keep you entertained. This part of Mid-Wales is a Mecca for mountain bikers and walkers alike, with trails aplenty in the Dyfi Forest and Coed Y Brenin. Cadair Idris, the highest mountain in southern Snowdonia, is a 15 minute drive north of the campsite for any walkers who fancy ascending this mighty peak – there’s a spectacular photo opportunity to be had near the summit of the Llyn Cau lake. And if it’s the seaside you seek, the sandy, swim-friendly beach at Aberdyfi lies 9 miles away.There are several nearby trails for mountain bikers, including the Dyfi Forest and Coed Y Brenin. Walkers are in their element too, Cadair Idris, the highest mountain in southern Snowdonia, is a 15 minute drive north – ask your host for the most suitable walking routes – and the Glyndwr’s Way, a 135-mile national trail passes 400 yards from the site. The mountain road leading from Llwyn Lodgings to Llanidloes boasts awesome views and the town itself is a charming spot with some lovely historic features such as the old market hall dating from the early 17th century. Aberdyfi beach is just nine miles away. Swimming, kitesurfing, and sailing are all on offer here, while fishing trips can be arranged through Mikatcha (01654 710869). Another fine way to see the coast is via the Cambrian Line Railway, which you can pick up from Machynlleth to Pwllheli, taking in Snowdonia National Park, Mawddach Estuary, Portmeirion (01766 770000) and Harlech Castle en route. For a rainy day activity, the award-winning Magic Lantern Cinema (01654 710260) in Tywyn is perfect. This historic picture house boasts a state-of-the-art screen with surround sound, quirky vintage décor, and a cracking bar which hosts regular events like a monthly open mic night. There's also a good crafts centre in nearby Corris or, for something different, you could venture underground, with a mine tour from Corris Mine Explorers or a mystical underground adventure with King Arthur's Labyrinth (01654 761584).
Be sure to grab a glass of fresh apple juice pressed straight from the orchard (juicing takes place from September–October). Llwyn also hosts the Rhyg a Rhosod artisan sourdough bakery. Their lovely loaves are available to buy onsite on Friday afternoons from 3–6pm, or every Wednesday outside Ty Medi café at Machynlleth market where you can also buy all manner of local artisan produce and delicious street food. Pick of the pubs is Tafarn Dwynant (01654 761660), a quirky, low-ceilinged alehouse-cum-art gallery with a piano, pool table, jukebox and some very fine burgers, or else try the The Dovey Valley Hotel (01650 511335) – a cracking spot on a sunny evening and food served in the summer months. Hit the coast at Aberdyfi (9 miles away) where you can enjoy freshly caught crab and lobster right on the quay from Dai’s Shed (07944 264821), then finish off with something sweet from the pink-fronted Aberdyfi Ice Cream Co. (01654 767222)– known locally as ‘The Sweet Shop’. And if you haven’t had your fill of seafood, seek out Salt Marsh Kitchen (01654 711949), 14 miles north along the coast at Tywyn, for steamed Welsh mussels or pan-fried scallops and Parma ham.