“If you take a handful of the soil at Dinefwr and squeeze it in your hand,” said Welsh journalist Wynford Vaughan Thomas, “The juice that will flow from your hands is the essence of Wales.” Certainly, this estate within the Brecon Beacons National Park is in an area that’s rich in the things the country is famous for: castles, valleys and, of course, mountains. And it’s on top of one of them that you’ll find Gelli Glamping’s safari tents. But you won’t need to dig your hands in to the earth here to find the essence of Wales as the hard work has been done for you; just sit back on the veranda and drink in views of the Tywi Valley.
Rhodri and Carys, the couple behind Gelli Glamping, left Cardiff for this Carmarthenshire smallholding so their children could enjoy the freedom of the countryside. Their new glamping venture means your family can too. And with just two luxurious tents here, you’ll have the place almost to yourselves… except for the on-site chickens. And the sheep, cattle and deer who graze in neighbouring fields. The safari tents are self-contained with their own driveway and space for two cars. If you’re coming with the family, you’ll be needing those, as it’s seriously hilly. But the ups and downs mean this place is just as good for hikers and bikers – just ask Rhodri for his favourite routes.
Families and small groups can happily share Y Berllan safari tent as it’s got two bedrooms and a mezzanine sleeping platform. Yr Odyn can sleep up to 4 with a king size bedroom and a bunk room. Both also have en suite bathrooms, equipped kitchens, wood-burning stoves and an electricity supply. Outside, Rhodri and Carys have put in a hot tub and dug a fire pit (that’s what we mean about not having to get your hands dirty). They’ll even provide the logs you’ll need to get a campfire going and they know a cracking local butcher for dinner supplies too. In fact, the pretty local town of Llandeilo has a few, in addition to a weekly farmers’ market and a surprising number of good places to eat out.
You can use footpaths to walk the three miles to town (remembering that a Beacons’ mile feels longer than the average) or head in the other direction to arrive at Carreg Cennen Castle. Even the lofty position of your tent at Gelli Glamping can’t rival the spectacular, cliff-top location of this 12th-century fortress, built by the ruler of an ancient Welsh kingdom. When it comes to castles, the area’s not lacking. The Dinefwr estate, also within hiking distance, has one and there’s another at Dryslwyn, seven miles away. Historic houses, gardens and a Roman gold mine are within 20 miles and Gelli’s location on the western edge of the national park means Carmarthen, the south coast and Pembrokeshire are not too far for day trips either
You can see deer grazing and, if you’re lucky, hares hopping by from the veranda of your safari tent and (if you’ve got your hiking boots) can set straight out on walks on footpaths that pass right by. There’s horseriding nearby at Dinefwr Riding Centre and mountain biking at Brechfa Forest, about 20 miles away. The nearest town is Llandeilo, a couple of miles away, where you’ll find independent shops, places to eat and a picturesque setting. You can walk to both Carreg Cennen Castle, three miles away, and Dinefwr Castle, which is just half-a-mile from your tent. The castle at Dinefwr is part of an 800-acre estate owned by the National Trust which also includes a deer park, national nature reserve and 17th-century Newton House. The ruins of another castle, Dryslwyn, are a short drive away (seven miles) and Gelli Aur Country Park, 5 miles, has a tearoom and walks in the estate surrounding a mansion (not open to the public). There are beautiful gardens and another historic building at Aberglasney, seven miles from Ty Gelli. The National Botanic Garden of Wales is a little further, 10 miles away, at Llanarthne. Within its grounds is the British Birds of Prey Centre - buy a combined Garden Plus Ticket to visit both. The Dolaucothi Gold Mines are 15 miles away.
It’s downhill on the way to The Cennen Arms pub, about half a mile away in the village of Trap, where you can fuel up on basic pub grub for the steep walk back. But for a highly-recommended bite to eat, get in the car and head instead for Wright’s Food Emporium in Llanarthne or for one of the many eateries in nearby Llandeilo. Among the options, there’s Ginhaus Deli, The Cawdor Hotel, The Angel Pub and Capel Bach Bistro. The town also has plenty of places to pick up supplies for picnics and campfire suppers with a farmers’ market every Friday morning and a choice of local butchers and delicatessens.
