The serene River Boucheuse is only a few metres wide as it idles along the side of Riveco Glamping, a small, endlessly green glampsite in the Limousin region. Just beyond the tall, mature trees and thick foliage of the site, the river widens into an oval-shaped millpond, cascading down a weir and continuing south past the nearby vineyards in La Faye. A tributary (romantically named, La Valentine) makes a similarly languid pathway around the local village of Coussac-Bonneval, five kilometres away, home to a 14th-century château and a trio of little restaurants. It’s the perfect patch for a holiday.
The Boucheuse is certainly part of the appeal here. The slower pace of the river seems to have permeated into all life around it. Birds seem to sing all the more harmoniously, the glampsite hammock seems to cocoon you all the more comfortably and the hours of the day breeze by in a haze of utter comfort. Even the donkeys and sheep on the smallholding are friendly, mellow creatures. Give them a wave as you wander down the yellow brick path that leads from your car to the great white geo-dome you’ll be calling home.
The dome itself, the only accommodation at the site, is right beside the river and boasts an extra, mezzanine level inside. On the bottom floor there’s a comfortable sofa area, facing out of the ginormous wall windows, along with some extra storage, while up the stairs there’s a king-sized bed. By night, the centre of the dome can be opened up to reveal a huge, circular window, allowing you to sleep directly beneath the stars. The sky here is blissfully un-polluted and the stars shine wonderfully for all to see, framed by the black outline of the surrounding trees.
Owners Carl and Lesley not only lend their personal touch to the glamping site – bunting hangs above the handy kitchen space and conscientiously placed candle lanterns are dotted around – but they also tend to the smallholdings vegetable patch and animals. The welcome basket when you arrive is always stocked with a few home-grown and local goodies and homecooked meals are available by request. For everything else, you can slope off to the village or head to the excellent Monday evening market in Ségur-le-Château, a local treasure and a wonderfully atmospheric, traditional French scene.
It's a 5-minute drive to Coussac-Bonneval, a beautiful little village with an 14th-century château at it's heart – Château de Bonneval (0033 6 2919 4906). It is small but has most of the essentials – a restaurant, bar, bakery and so on. St Yrieix la Perche is 15 minute's away, for further amenities. There is also a cinema and a new swimming pool/leisure centre (0033 5 5558 6020) there. It's 50 minute's to Limoges, where quaint, medieval, timber-frame houses line Rue de la Boucherie. The city is known for its decorated porcelain, much of which is on display at the Musée National Adrien Debouche (0033 5 5533 0850), while the Musée des Beaux-Arts (0033 5 5545 9810) showcases the history within the dramatic setting of the former Episcopal Palace. Finally, the Gothic Cathédrale St-Étienne (0033 5 5534 4687) took six centuries to complete. So the least you could do is give it a few moments of your time for a visit.
A welcome hamper with local produce is provided to help the guests settle in and homecooked food (breakfast, lunch and dinner) is also available upon request – it always includes organic food produced on the campsite's small holding. Market days in St Yrieix la Perche (15-minute drive) are the 2nd and 4th Friday each month. Nearby Ségur-le-Château also hosts a producers' market every Monday evening during July and August. Roam the stalls selecting your meat from one, your wine from another, bread from a third and so on, before making your way to the BBQ in the corner where your meat will be cooked for you! If you're around on a Monday it is a must!