The sleepy village of Port Eynon on the Gower Peninsula is dominated by campsites, and static caravan parks occupy various hillside fields above the town. But help is at hand at Skysea (formerly known as Carreglwyd Camping & Caravanning), which has five camping fields, of which only the two nearest reception are favoured by caravans, with tents having the run of the place beyond. Pitches nearest the beach tuck in under the shelter of thick hedges, affording views of Port Eynon bay from the higher ground.
All in all, it’s a well-organised and well- equipped site, with modern showers that are both clean and free, plus a very good onsite launderette and a small shop at reception for the basics. But above all its direct access to the beach means that it’s a perfect place for young families, with a half-mile crescent of calm family-friendly waters and plenty of water sports opportunities that makes it kid-friendly heaven during summer.
If the sun is a no-show for your camping holiday or if the beach doesn’t appeal, head the other way out of the campsite, where a maze of paths explore the headland. This land is owned and managed by the National Trust, but it feels wild and untamed. There are caves to be found around here as well as Culver Hole, a mysterious four-storey building secreted into the rocks of the headland. Its origin may have been defensive, but it’s highly probable that it has seen more use as a smugglers’ hideout.
Besides the beach Port Eynon is a relatively soulless spot, but there’s a more untamed world on the right, towards the tip of the peninsula. This part of the coast is owned and managed by the National Trust, but it feels wilder. Mewslade is a birdwatchers’ paradise while Fall Bay is the best unspoilt beach in the area – only accessible at low tide, but that doesn’t stop many campers wading there or scrambling over the rocks to this idyllic bolthole. The coastal path to Worm’s Head and Rhossili is a spectacular five-mile walk, showcasing the most dramatic stretch of Gower coastline and possibly the best sunset in the UK – proof alone, if it were needed, of why Gower was selected as Britain’s first official Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Gower Coast Adventures do boat trips from Port Eynon to Worm’s Head (07866 250440), perfect for spotting gannets, guillemots and even puffins. For those after a water-based adrenalin kick, surfboards can be rented and lessons taken from Sam’s Surf Shack in Rhossili (01792 350519). It’s also the perfect place to paraglide off the headland in Rhossili (01239 614140).
Among places to eat in Port Eynon, the Smugglers Haunt (01792 391257) does pizzas and pub grub, while the Seafarer (01792 380879) does decent fish and chips. A 5-mile walk or bus away in Rhossili village, the Worm’s Head Hotel (01792 390512) serves good food that’s very nice washed down with a pint of Worm’s Head Ale. It’s a stunning spot at sunset, and chef Kate Probert does day cookery courses at her home in Three Cliffs (07976 639352). Twelve miles away, in Llanmadoc, you’ll find the Britannia Inn (01792 386624) with estuary views and locally caught fresh fish on the menu. Main courses range from £10.50–16.