Smugglers Cove Boatyard
UK Wales North Wales Gwynedd Aberdovey
You’d never know the acoustics in the hull of a boat could be so perfect until you’ve tried it. A piano, tucked beneath the low beams of the main deck, is alive under the fingers of a particularly gifted musician and everyone else, clustered along rug-thrown benches, is belting out the chorus of “What shall we do with the drunken sailor…” Every verse seems to grow louder, at one point the guitar is even picked up for extra gusto, but it all peters out into laughter when the group runs out of lines and fresh ideas have all run dry.
Somewhere between pub, party, village hall and your best mate's living room, this is just another night below deck aboard The Boy John – officially Cool Camping's favourite ship. By the next day the partying pianists have left and a couple have taken a quieter captaincy of the vessel, kipping in the cabin where a double bed offers quirky, semi-glamping-esque accommodation.
Unique as it may be, though, The Boy John is just one feather in this unusual campsite’s cap. Smugglers Cove Boatyard contains as many hidden gems as the name suggests and when you step from the hull of the boat out into the eye-blinkingly bright sunlight there is still a treasure trove to explore. This, after all, is not really a glamping site at all but an eclectic, rustic sustainable camping resource with a little bit of everything on offer.
Smugglers Cove Boatyard started life as an old slate works and quay overlooking the beautiful Dyfi Estuary. For years it continued its existence building boats, offering moorings and acting as a hub for local sailors. But now, while these nautical trades continue, it has also opened its doors to fellow outdoor enthusiasts. Along the coastal footpath, a hundred meters from the boatyard, three individual camping pitches offer the very best spots on the Dyfi’s banks and, tucked beneath the tree line, they provide ultimate waterside privacy in a positively dreamy location.
Camping here is a truly unique experience. Beyond your tent flaps is a scene that changes as much within the hour as most sites do across the season. Cobble a morning brew together over the campfire and munch on blackberries as high tide laps beyond your toes and wooden sailing boats to and fro across the estuary. Come lunchtime it’s become a private beach, the water withdrawing to a narrow channel slithering through the sands while long-legged birds wade along its edges. In fact, there’s actually a nature reserve that campers look across to, RSPB Ynys-hir on the opposite shore, so it’s no wonder the birdlife is so abundant – sail across at high tide for a closer look.
Landlubbers are just as welcome as those arriving with boat in tow. Head back along the coastal path to where cars are parked and explore the local fishing villages or, better still, keep two feet firmly on the ground by venturing into the peaks of Snowdonia National Park and walking the ridges that crinkle towards the north east. The views reveal a vast vista of the estuary below, though don’t expect to see the campsite. Tucked in their perfectly secluded location, your tents really are a camping cubbyhole in the wilds, worth every second of the 100m walk to get to.
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Details
Facilities
There are toilets and showers in an ablutions building near the car parking area. Firewood is available for sale (by the bag or wheelbarrow load) and small campfires are permitted in the three camping pitch fireplaces. Pitches have outstanding estuary views (partly because they are practically in the water!) and, when the tide is out, there is a beach. There is no vehicle access to the camping pitches, however the site provides a wheelbarrow for carrying your kit and it's only a 100m walk. The Boy John, a converted fishing vessel, is available for groups to use as a communal space or as glamping accommodation. It features a sleeping cabin, wheel house with bench/bed, piano, log-burning stove, galley, fridge, music station, furniture and storage, and access to the top deck to enjoy the views at your own risk.Suitable For
Tents, families, groups, dogs – yes. Campervans, caravans and motorhomes – no.Nearby
Aberdyfi is 3 miles away. It's a charming, colourful little fishing village with a few good eateries and a big sandy beach. The drive takes less than 5 minutes but if the tide is a long way out you can walk, for around an hour, along the sands. It's a 10 minute drive to Machynlleth, a larger market town with independent shops along the high street, and a little further on the same road is the Centre for Alternative Technology (01654 705950), an interesting place to visit if you've been taken in by the eco-conscious camping. Smugglers Cove looks across the water to RSPB Ynys-hir (01654 700222), the location for much of the BBC's Springwatch series and the Dyfi Osprey Project (01654 781414), nearby, is particularly interesting. It is one of only two breeding locations for Ospreys in the UK with a walkway and hide for observing. Of course, by far the two biggest things here are heading into vast Snowdonia National Park (01766 770274) to walk, hike, bike and explore or to go boating on the estury directly from the boatyard. If you need a little tution try Dyfi Yacht Club (01654 767607) in Aberdyfi where there is sailing, kayaking, kitesurfing and more.Food & Drink
Forage the trees around the camping pitches or get out your fishing rod and try to reel in your own dinner to cook on the campfire or if you're after something a little more speedy then the local towns of Aberdyfi & Machynlleth have a range of good eateries specialising in Welsh cuisine, fish and seafood etc. with a great deli in each. There is even a Michelin starred restaurant on the other side of the river!Opening Times
Easter–November for camping, but the Boy John is available for most of the year.Why book with Cool Camping?
- Best Price Guarantee, with no fees
- Instant booking confirmation
- Trusted for over 10 years
- A chance to win prizes in our regular competitions
The Owner Says
Camping and glamping in a working boatyard with an exceptional location on the Dyfi estuary.
This small, friendly boatyard on the Dyfi estuary, is located at an old slate works and quay in the Snowdonia National Park.
The boatyard is run by Geoff, Ben, John & Liz with the boats moved and launched by boat builder Giles Thaxton.
We have established a small, slightly eccentric, sustainable resource to be used by those interested in the outdoors.
We have a slipway and boat hoist, moorings & hard standing for smaller boats, toilets, showers, camping, glamping boat and holiday cottages.
Located 3 miles upriver from Aberdyfi bar and on the A493
Accommodation
3 south facing pitches each, each 11im x 4.5m with a fire place, on a raised slate plateau beside the Dyfi estuary. Separated from each other by a small amount of undergrowth, we only allow one tent on each pitch and we request that you pitch on an area not used by the previous campers to allow regrowth. Converted fishing boat for use as a communal space for groups or glamping accomodation for 2.
Location
Contact Smugglers Cove Boatyard, Frongoch, Aberdyfi, Gwynedd, LL35 0RG
Getting There
Reviews
Add Your ReviewRated ★★★★★ over 23 reviews
Magical place
A magical location and a really wild experience
Incredible escape from the world in stunningly peaceful and beautiful Welsh landscapes.
Beautiful place
A piece of heaven
Absolutely lovely
Stunning location
What a stunning location
Rustic hideaway
Amazing place
Idyllic and beautiful spot in a fantastic boat!
extactly what we wanted
Amazing pitch, beautiful views
Escape from the hustle
Loving the wilderness
The view
World class view, wonderfully idiosyncratic experience
Stunning & unspoilt
Dangerous and dirty
best weekend ever
Camping/The boy John
Our stay on Boy John
Smugglers Cove Camp Site
Beautifully secluded tiny corner of the Dyfi Estuary, a pick of three pitches all with stunning views to take your breath away. The perfect spot to watch the sun go down, a fire sky of electric pink amazingness. Arriving to meet the lovely owners of this campsite they were very welcoming, laid back but very accommodating to our every need, not that we were in need of much, the scenery and instant warming feeling of this tranquil environment captured us into an amazing little bubble. Needless to say to make the experience ever-more magical we needed a campfire and Giles was on hand to provide us with an abundance of firewood and interesting shaped offcuts from the boat yard we were rather reluctant to burn. Waking up to the incoming tide and bird song, you cant ask for much more. This campsite is un-spoilt perfection and we hope it never grows or goes :)
Why book with Cool Camping?
- Best Price Guarantee, with no fees
- Instant booking confirmation
- Trusted for over 10 years
- A chance to win prizes in our regular competitions