Smugglers Cove Boatyard
Frongoch, Aberdyfi, Gwynedd, LL35 0RG
You’d never know the acoustics in the hull of a boat could be so perfect until you’ve tried it. A piano, tucked beneath the low beams of the main deck, is alive under the fingers of a particularly gifted musician and everyone else, clustered along rug-thrown benches, is belting out the chorus of “What shall we do with the drunken sailor…” Every verse seems to grow louder, at one point the guitar is even picked up for extra gusto, but it all peters out into laughter when the group runs out of lines and fresh ideas have all run dry.
Somewhere between pub, party, village hall and your best mate's living room, this is just another night below deck aboard The Boy John – officially Cool Camping's favourite ship. By the next day the partying pianists have left and a couple have taken a quieter captaincy of the vessel, kipping in the cabin where a double bed offers quirky, semi-glamping-esque accommodation.
Unique as it may be, though, The Boy John is just one feather in this unusual campsite’s cap. Smugglers Cove Boatyard contains as many hidden gems as the name suggests and when you step from the hull of the boat out into the eye-blinkingly bright sunlight there is still a treasure trove to explore. This, after all, is not really a glamping site at all but an eclectic, rustic sustainable camping resource with a little bit of everything on offer.
Smugglers Cove Boatyard started life as an old slate works and quay overlooking the beautiful Dyfi Estuary. For years it continued its existence building boats, offering moorings and acting as a hub for local sailors. But now, while these nautical trades continue, it has also opened its doors to fellow outdoor enthusiasts. Along the coastal footpath, a hundred meters from the boatyard, three individual camping pitches offer the very best spots on the Dyfi’s banks and, tucked beneath the tree line, they provide ultimate waterside privacy in a positively dreamy location.
Camping here is a truly unique experience. Beyond your tent flaps is a scene that changes as much within the hour as most sites do across the season. Cobble a morning brew together over the campfire and munch on blackberries as high tide laps beyond your toes and wooden sailing boats to and fro across the estuary. Come lunchtime it’s become a private beach, the water withdrawing to a narrow channel slithering through the sands while long-legged birds wade along its edges. In fact, there’s actually a nature reserve that campers look across to, RSPB Ynys-hir on the opposite shore, so it’s no wonder the birdlife is so abundant – sail across at high tide for a closer look.
Landlubbers are just as welcome as those arriving with boat in tow. Head back along the coastal path to where cars are parked and explore the local fishing villages or, better still, keep two feet firmly on the ground by venturing into the peaks of Snowdonia National Park and walking the ridges that crinkle towards the north east. The views reveal a vast vista of the estuary below, though don’t expect to see the campsite. Tucked in their perfectly secluded location, your tents really are a camping cubbyhole in the wilds, worth every second of the 100m walk to get to.
The Owner Says
Camping and glamping in a working boatyard with an exceptional location on the Dyfi estuary.
This small, friendly boatyard on the Dyfi estuary, is located at an old slate works and quay in the Snowdonia National Park.
The boatyard is run by John Wassell and Geoff Hill, the day to day management of the yard is done by boat builder Giles Thaxton.
We have established a small, slightly eccentric, sustainable resource to be used by those interested in the outdoors.
We have a slipway and boat hoist, moorings & hard standing for smaller boats, toilets, showers, camping and holiday cottages.
Located 3 miles upriver from Aberdyfi bar and on the A493
best weekend ever
we booked a campsite and the amazing BoyJohn for a family and friends get together last month September 2016. What could I say? the location is amazing the facilities are basic but more than adequate, we went swimming in and sailing on the estuary, grilled fresh caught fish on the beach and had a massive driftwood fire in the evening, other glampers joined us making one big happy party. I think what makes this place so cool is the magic energy that is all around it. We have already booked our next visit for round 2!
Camping/The boy John
We stayed one night camping on the estuary with amazing views and friendly and welcoming staff however the 60 mph winding road which passed above the tent pitches were slightly unnerving. it is of course protected by a once/twice hit patched up wall. You will be fine :) I'm 100% sure that nobody has been squashed "yet". It all adds to the adventure and it is a small price to pay considering the views and lovely location for walks etc. The owner charged us £10 for a standard bag of logs that were too wet to burn yet later in the evening we found wheel barrows full for £10 a barrow with a honesty box which we thought was a bit cheeky of the owner. We are not to bothered about facilities as we often wild camp but if you are then expect cold showers in a working boat yard (think you can get the picture) We are quite campers who come to walk and enjoy the peace and quite and the lovely views. This was a little to noisy for us with very loud music coming from the hill sides which ecos through the estuary till 3am. (We only stayed one night...unlucky maybe) Overall I would give the camping 5 out of 10 bases on location and views. We also stayed for one night in the boy John at £100 a night. This was supposed to be a treat for us half way through our road trip so that we could get dry and walm before heading to the Pembrokeshire coast. Sadly the boy John was very disappointing, unique and unusual but far from being worth £100 a night. We were told that the boy John was not a sparkling boat but I wasn't quite prepared for the missing Windows rotting wood and large rat holes. I think the smugglers cove may need to recruit a new cleaner. The boat had a very damp smell from the rotting wood and was in need of some very much deserved TLC. It was very sad to see this lovely boat going to wreck and ruin. This is no cozy love shack/romantic getaway. It was however an experience and if we had paid £25 a night to stay here I would not have any complaints but for £100 a night it gives a lot to complain about. Overall the boy John gets a 2.5 out of 10 from us. Just because under all that grime it's a very lovely boat just needing a bit of love and care. If you love boats then please don't let us put you off. As seen in previous reviews of the boy John one persons opinion and experience may differ very much from another and it can be very much down to personal preference. I write this review simply because people work hard for their holidays and therefore I wouldn't want you to waste your well earned cash if this is not for you.
Our stay on Boy John
Honestly the best surprise getaway I've ever experienced. The landscape is both tranquil and breathtaking. It is a very relaxing location with so much to do in the surrounding area. Me and my partner enjoyed it so much we are already organising our next trip (for longer next time) . Hopefully next time we are also going to bring all our family with us! The owners were so friendly and made us feel right at home. The Boy John is so special, we will always treasure our stay. See you soon Smugglers cove. Thank you so much for proving unforgettable memories.
Smugglers Cove Camp Site
Beautifully secluded tiny corner of the Dyfi Estuary, a pick of three pitches all with stunning views to take your breath away. The perfect spot to watch the sun go down, a fire sky of electric pink amazingness. Arriving to meet the lovely owners of this campsite they were very welcoming, laid back but very accommodating to our every need, not that we were in need of much, the scenery and instant warming feeling of this tranquil environment captured us into an amazing little bubble. Needless to say to make the experience ever-more magical we needed a campfire and Giles was on hand to provide us with an abundance of firewood and interesting shaped offcuts from the boat yard we were rather reluctant to burn. Waking up to the incoming tide and bird song, you cant ask for much more. This campsite is un-spoilt perfection and we hope it never grows or goes :)