They say every Englishman's home is his castle. Well, what about the Welsh? We know of one Welshman for whom this old adage rings truer than most, for Tom Humphreys is the owner of Usk Castle in Monmouthshire. Built around 1120, this fantastically well-preserved Norman fortification overlooks the charming Mid-Wales market town, and beyond to the Black Mountains. It's a suitably atmospheric setting – the ancient ivy-clad walls, the weathered gargoyles, the imposing round tower – history hued into every stone.
But, far from the cold-hearted overlord presiding over his medieval serfdom, Squire Humphreys has graciously opened up the castle grounds for a handful of lucky campers.
Comprising four spacious, stripey pavilions (with additional space for around 10 or so tents), Castle Knights offers guests the chance to indulge their most feather-plumed medieval fantasies.
Campers have the run of the castle grounds and the ruins are free to explore. Unsurprisingly, kids will adore this place, with medieval fancy dress, archery, and bicycle jousting on offer. There's even a wooden watch tower for your knee-high noblemen to plot their next defence of the realm.
It's not all pitched battles and pillaging though. The setting is wonderfully peaceful. There's a magnificent woodcraft sculpture trail by local artist Adam Humphreys (Tom's son), and the views over undulating Monmouthshire hills are lovely. In short, the perfect setting for swaying lazily in the hammock.
Usk itself is steeped in history. One of the simple joys is strolling through this pretty market town – the Victorian clock tower in the floral Twyn Square, the cobbled pavements and 17th century houses of the parade, all presided over by the Norman castle, a pleasing anachronism. Tom is a mine of local history too and his encyclopedic knowledge of the castle and town's tempestuous past really brings this place to life.
There's some spectacular walks in the area, not least in the stunning Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons National Park. The River Usk makes for good fishing with salmon, brown and sea trout all known to inhabit its waters. Summertime sees young and old partaking in a spot of wild swimming. Not had your fill of rivers? You could always slip over Offa's Dyke for a spot of peaceful canoeing in the Wye (01600 891100). Usk is also on the National Cycle Route 42 from Glasbury to Gloucester for those wishing to explore Mid-Wales on two wheels. For a spot of pampering, Cwrt Bleddyn Hotel & Spa (01633 450521) offers various beautifying treatments. The famous Abergavenny Food Festival (01873 851643) is a must for any foodies visiting at the tail end of September. Usk Rural Life Museum (01291 673777) is a charming educational insight into the town's history. Further afield, the Big Pit: National Coal Museum (029 2039 7951) brings Wales' coal mining heritage vividly to life with a 300ft descent into a genuine mine – and it's free. Not bad for a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
The area is something of a gastro hot-spot. There's the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree (01873 852797), run by distinguished chef Shaun Hill. The excellent Crown at Whitebrook (01600 860254) offers a similarly sophisticated menu in gorgeous Wye Valley setting. The Hardwick (01873 854220) in Abergavenny is the favourite Welsh restaurant of a certain Michel Roux Jr. Nantyderry's The Foxhunter (01873 881101) is a former AA Welsh Restaurant of the Year, housed in an old stationmaster's house. For something a little less grand but no less lovely, The Greyhound Inn Llantrissant (01291 672505) serves up pub grub favourites and mixed grills at reasonable prices. The Raglan Arms (01291 690800) serves adventurous locally-sourced dishes impeccably presented. The Inn at Penallt (01600 772765) promises a warm welcome, fantastic food and spectacular valley views. Try a drop of the Butty Bach – Welsh for 'little mate'.