If ever a hill can be said to cascade down into a valley it’s the Blorenge, halfway up which perches the smallholding of Middle Ninfa (‘charcoal burner’ in Welsh). From its three tiny and secluded wild pitches on the edge of the Brecon Beacons you can imagine yourself an eagle lording it over the Usk Valley. A little closer to hand, though still far below, is the owners’ cottage with its tennis-court-cum-croquet-lawn, next to which is a space for another tent or two. Even down here the view is an extraordinary one, off out into the blue and across to the Skirrid mountain. Around the fire listen out for tawny owls in the woods, the occasional scream of a steam train’s whistle, and the crack of wood on wood if other guests are playing on the croquet lawn (or the crack of wood on scalp if things have become sufficiently heated). In the morning, expect a visit from a playful young cat and one exceedingly gentle chestnut horse who is all happy to be made a fuss of and careful not to tread on anything she shouldn’t. A short trek upwards leads to a wonderful nature reserve and pond, while vertigo sufferers can check themselves into a luxurious bunkhouse by the cottage. Meanwhile, the site’s eco credentials even run to a compost loo in a tiny shed in the garden. And just in case all this were not heaven enough, you can book yourself a session in Middle Ninfa’s very own wood-fired sauna. Just spare everyone the jokes about becoming a Ninfa-maniac.
