Poor Glenbrittle, it must be like having Miss World for a sister. Skye’s Black Cuillin mountains are so jaw-droppingly beautiful that people often forget to enjoy the delights of the lowly glen at their foot. A thread of a road twists along a valley where red deer slip silently through the forests, a tumbling river forms exquisite pools of water and where, after seven sinuous miles, you will find one of the finest campsites in the country.
Glenbrittle campsite seems to have come to some peace agreement with its savage and towering mountain neighbours, allowing it to flourish quietly by their rocky flanks. The site is large but at the same time intimate, with long grass cropped into neat little sections that hold a few tents each. This, with the undulating terrain, gives the land a secretive feel: you could put 50 tents up and swear the place was half empty.
All of this makes selecting a pitch deliciously difficult. The view of the Cuillins is a gem, but no sooner do you align your tent towards it than you realise there are other treasures around. You could camp beside the riotous flowers that line the tiny stream, or next to the sleepy stretch of farmland inland from the campsite. Or how about next to a view of the beach that curves as firm and smooth as the belly of a young salmon? Whichever spot you fall in love with, you’ll soon discover that this family has more than one beauty queen…
Glenbrittle is not one of those sites with shiny toilet blocks and vast children’s playgrounds. The facilities at Glenbrittle have been upgraded, and the number of pitches has risen by 20, but the rugged simplicity of the site still attracts those in need of some serious R&R. It is a little like a Links golf course, with smooth broad fairways in which to pitch your tent and knee-deep rough in which to lose stray tent pegs.
Glenbrittle attracts an eclectic clientele from all corners of the world. You may stumble upon Scottish hippies singing ‘Ziggy Stardust’ around a fire on the beach, a gaggle of Polish climbers returning to the site, jangling their crampons and carabiners, or a quiet Japanese couple with a state-of-the-art tent and a worrying collection of sashimi knifes. Just don’t let them see the Pot Noodle you’re cooking up for your own supper.
Glenbrittle is probably most popular with climbers, who use it as a base for tackling the Cuillins, the mountain range that dominates the Skye skyline. Like a jaw full of broken teeth, it looms over Glenbrittle, blotting out the early sun. Every morning, plucky climbers can be seen setting off at dawn; climbing here is a serious business and not for the fainthearted. But even if you are not part of the crampon and carabiner crew, there are plenty of low-level adventures to be had along the peninsula. Whether you find yourself hanging from the rocks or simply relaxing on the beach, Glenbrittle is the perfect tonic for anyone who wants peace, tranquillity and a mobile phone with no signal.
7 miles down a single-track road means this really is self-catering territory. The campsite has its own shop, which is fully stocked with everything you might need. There is a coffee machine too. If you really need a bit of civilisation, head to the Sligachan Hotel (01478 650202), where there’s a swanky restaurant and a cheaper bar. The Old Inn (01478 640205) at Carbost, 8 miles back up the single-track access road, has regular live music throughout the summer and a lively atmosphere.