The Isle of Skye has always been one of the more romantic spots of Scotland, the epitome of the tartan and heather view of the Highlands and Islands. This is partly because it’s always been the most accessible island from the mainland, so it’s a little more well known – and well worn – than the outer isles. Even before the stylish Skye Bridge was built and the tolls abolished, Skye was only a short ferry trip from Kyle of Lochalsh. And it was the first of the Hebrides to have Sunday sailings, in 1964; something that still causes controversy with other islands today.
Skye’s reputation is for its scenery, from the ragged Cuillins to the ridges of Trotternish, and for its association with Bonnie Prince Charlie. After his defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the fleeing prince, dressed in drag, was rowed across from Benbecula by a local lass, Flora MacDonald. He gave her a locket in thanks and hoped they’d meet again. They never did. He fled to live out his days as an exile in Rome while she was arrested and sent to the Tower of London. Though she was later released and emigrated to North Carolina, she’s gone down in history as a plucky and rosy-cheeked heroine.
Camus More, in the small crafting community of Bornesketaig, has been in the MacDonald family for four generations and Iain and Bryony have lived here full time since 1989. They started up the small campsite a good 20-odd years ago, but have managed to keep it fairly under the radar (they don’t own a computer so have no website), known only to a small band of aficionados and the occasional lost soul who stumbles here by mistake.
There are only a dozen or so pitches, shaved out of the long grass and separated from the beach by a low stone wall. The site is on the Ray Mears side of basic with just a couple of loos and an outdoor sink for washing – and it’s cold water only – but then somehow it seems in keeping with the sparse surroundings. Behind the site the land sweeps slowly upwards, dotted with houses from the old to the new, up towards the cliffs of the Trotternish Ridge. This jagged range defines the north of Skye as surely as the Cuillins do the south. There’s a grand road right up through the middle of the mountains that’s worth trying (by bike if you’re feeling fit and brave) for the fantastic views down the eastern side of Skye and out over Staffin Island.
From the site at Camus More, if you’re lucky or patient, probably both, you might spot a golden eagle over the hills to the south, a family of otters round the headland or even the occasional school of basking sharks out in the bay, though more likely you’ll just get stared at by all the cows in the back field.
If you’re not treated to a show by the local wildlife, then you can at least expect a great sunset, so have your camera at the ready. The site looks straight across the Little Minch towards Harris and the Uists, and as the long summer evenings draw to a close here, the sun sinks down behind the line of the Outer Hebrides and you can almost count the islands poking from the fiery sea as they taper off to the south. It’s classic Skye, and this is why people who’ve been can’t help but be drawn back again.
After more excitement in North Carolina during the American War of Independence, Flora MacDonald came home and ended her days here, perhaps enjoying the very same sunset views. She’s buried on the hill behind the site, a romantic end to a romantic life on the oh-so-romantic Isle of Skye.
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If you're looking for somewhere that isn't wild camping but also isn't camping in an all-mod-cons campsite then Camus More may be for you.
The facilities are basic. 1 male and 1 female loo, an outside (cold water) sink and use of the site owners shed which includes a fridge and a couple of power points.
All this is on grassy pitches right next to the rocky beach where there is a small jetty and rocks to fish from.The site owners, locals Iain and Bryony, were very welcoming.
Pitches this 'summer' were £8 per night for a tent. (not priced per person as some sites are)
There is also a small exhibition, called Macurdie's, of bizarre humour which you mustn't miss! This site is certainly high on our list next time we're back in Skye.
Camping Camus More
We loved our stay at Camus more and ended up staying longer than planned - despite no showers! :) We had 3 nights of beautiful sunsets and warm days spent relaxing and watching the wildlife. And we managed an array of lovely pictures at Camus More
On our arrival it was deserted but as the evening grew later a few other lovely campers arrived. It was a very pleasurable stay with nice owners.
Firstly, I am part of the Glaswegian couple (not forgetting my friend Alan) that visits this fantastic site twice a year, that calum123 mentions & am glad he enjoyed our hospitality at the campfire on the beach. It's not a party (no music, singing, or shouting.), just fellow campers from various parts of the world enjoying a beer, or glass of wine, while watching the sun go down. Or, if you're there long enough... Watching the sun come up! Yes, the facilities are basic, but that adds a certain attraction to this site, that only serious campers appreciate. It's as close to natural camping that you can get... Just with the added bonus of a loo & running water. We found this site in 2003 and fell in love with the area. We have been back every year since. So, if your going to Skye, I can thoroughly recommend Camus More. Just tell Bryony & Ian you read this review. Hopefully it will get us a discount... Only kidding Bryony!
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