Durness, Sutherland IV27 4PP
Sutherland is the least populated place in Britain; and while journeying north to reach the isolated community of Durness, the emptiness and desolation may prove slightly unnerving for city-slickers out on a rare trip north. For this reason, when the wide-eyed traveller finally rides into the wee village of Durness (population 400) it takes on the proportions and atmosphere of somewhere much, much bigger.
Travelling through the beautiful, brutal scenery to this top north-western corner of Scotland is a sensational experience, and taken slowly (stopping off at the other Cool Camping sites along the west coast, perhaps) this amazing journey will surprise, delight, shock, and provoke any other emotion it is possible to feel from wandering through such high, wild places. Once any sober mind has made it past Ullapool to Durness, it will be hard-pressed to recall any other place in Britain that quite captures this same essence of wilderness.
This is the setting for Sango Sands. It wouldn’t matter if this campsite doubled up as the local bus shelter, for it offers succour to the weary traveller when it seemed that the world had ended, which, in effect, it does just here. Sango Sands teeters on the northern edge of Britain in glorious fashion, a fitting end to the trek through all that emptiness – a view out to infinity. Its unique north-facing location at the very top of Scotland means that in summer you can watch the sun both rise and set over the ocean. That is if you aren’t lying in your sleeping bag, exhausted from all the outdoor adventuring that you can’t help yourself doing in this wild and windswept corner of the land.
If you can drag your eyes away from the view of mountains on two-and-a-half sides, and the endless ocean on the other three (really, this is fact, not an optical illusion) then the campsite itself is fairly ordinary. But you can’t and it isn’t.
There are several fields to camp in and the most picturesque spots are by the steep slopes above the beaches. There are other thoughtfully prepared areas for tents, too, which give children ample room to kick a ball away from nearby cars and, though there are caravans littering the site in places, they’re almost invisible because the scenery is so magnificently big. The toilet blocks, of which there are several, are fine, though lengthy details of hot showers and clean basins slightly misses the point of why this campsite is so superb; as day-time television fans would say, it’s all about location, location, location.
The place boasts an embarrassment of sandy blessings with not one but two spectacular beaches easily reached by tracks from the site. The land and sea might meet here, but it’s clear that they don’t really get on. The beach is scattered with black rocks carved from ancient cliffs by centuries of northern storms. The power of the waves makes it a favourite spot of surfers and you can hire boards nearby if you fancy joining in. Or if the waves aren’t too pounding it is possible to swim.
That’s the thing about Durness: it may be remote but there’s a lot to do. A few miles west is the aptly named Cape Wrath, which you can visit by catching a ferry and then a minibus – there’s a lighthouse, the highest sea cliffs in Britain and a thrilling sense of freedom.Then you can return to your tent on its cliff-top eyrie and stay awake for that late, late sunsett.
The Owner Says
Fabulous Site - And Busy
Everything as you say on the website and in the book - fantastic! But be prepared for "campervan city" and not a huge choice of tent pitches during high season. The North Coast 500 has been hugely popular and increased tourism particularly campervans (nothing against them, honest!).
Amazing location, fabulous views!
One of the best locations we have ever camped at - the beaches, scenery and views out to sea are stunning and awe-inspiring. It's a well organised campsite with some great pitches right on top of the cliffs looking out to sea. The facilities - shower (shared mens/womens) and toilet blocks, washing, laundry and cooking areas - are rather small, tired and dated (the showers reminded me of my old school showers in the 70's) but they were generally clean and tidy. The onsite pub/restaurant is a huge plus and serves a great selection of food and drinks in the evening. Conveniently, a Spar shop is close by selling fresh bread every morning and all the supplies you could need. A self-service petrol pump is also just up the road which is very handy. We'd happily go back and maybe stay for longer next time.
Great location, helpful owner
Amazing location - cliff top above 2 beautiful beaches. Large and uncrowded feeling even though it was relatively busy when we were there. laid back - pitch where you like. Yes, it's windy. We were unlucky enough to have a broken tent pole. James helpfully provided us with a space part and helped fix it.
We camped as a family here in August and enjoyed a clifftop pitch - wasn't too windy at all. Weather in northwestern Scotland then was sunnier than it was back home in Brighton! Had a great time exploring the beautiful beaches there - there's a hillside path that runs down to the beach that is easily navigable on foot - wetsuits needed, though. Boys had a blast running around the rocks and swimming and getting great gusts of fresh air on the cliffsides. Truly stunning views and great people there; restaurant just adjacent to the campsite if you fancy a hot meal and don't fancy cooking it yourself. Highly recommended.
WOW what a view, we were lucky enough to get a cliff top pitch with views of mountains, beautiful beach and sea that went on and on and on. A fantastic site that hits all the spots. The outline of this site is correct you don't notice other caravans, motorhomes or tents because the whole time you are mesmerized by the stunning view.
The site facilities were basic however more than adequate, your camping not at a five star spa break. There are two local shops, a petrol station and two resturants within walking distance. We ate at the pub attached to the site which was very reasonablly prices the food was maybe not the best and the veg obvioulsy frozen however when your this remote what do you really expect?
The test of a good site for me is would I go back - Yes, would I recommend to others - HELL YEAH.
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Would have loved to have spent more time here but the weather was against us. When the book says it’s slightly windy please read extremely windy and very exposed, even for the smaller tents. Woke up on our first and only night, at 5 am to our neighbours having to pack up as their tent had collapsed. 1hr later it was out turn and we had to leave with a very broken tent!!!! the facillities are basic. For the size of campsite I would havce expected the toliet and shower blocks to be a better standard, but i’m usually not very fussy. There is a large retaurant and oub close by and a sizeable SPAR, but that’s all we had time to appreciate....except for the view. We will re vsist, but not in a tent.
Large campsite, which was busy but was able to find a quiet ptich. German campers i met at check in were back for a second visit. Exposed site but fortunalty weather was in my favour. Campers kitchen on site has gas burners to save waiting ages for the camping gaz stove. Smoo cave nearby worth seeing, Sea Otters spotted at secluded bay by nearby golf couse and dunes with views of Cape Wrath.
The campsite is absolutely stunning. Truly the most beautiful view we’ve had from a paid campsite. We stayed for a few days and explored the area, Smoo cave, went to Thurso for the day. It was very windy but that’s to be expected so far north. We spent the worst of it in the lovely little pub just off-site. Unfortunately our tent bent to the wind, and we had to go home a day early. The campsite has excellent facilities including a campers’ kitchen complete with gas stoves- fantastic. We’ll be back when we’ve a stronger tent!
Amazing views but be warned ... It is VERY windy. I took a teepee style tent and it would not stand up to the kind of wind found on this site. I even had trouble with a standard 2 man tent. Worth it for the views but pack some extra guy ropes and tent pegs!