The tiny island of Bryher, Isles of Scilly, has two distinct faces. To the south and east, calm blue waters fill the narrow, sheltered channel between the island and its larger cousin, Tresco. Boats come and go whilst sunbathers enjoy the sandy beaches at Green Bay and the secluded cove of Rushy Bay. The northwestern shores, however, are a jagged jumble of weather-torn rocks, beaten and broken by the relentless Atlantic waves. Gales sometimes lash this coast with thousand-ton breakers, and places like Badplace Hill and Hell Bay have earned their names through reputation.
Such schizophrenic characteristics make this island special. The sandy-beach bays to the island’s south are backed by dunes and provide ample opportunity for sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling, although the water can be a little nippy. Just beyond sits Samson Hill, the southernmost point of the island, with far-reaching views across the Scillies. The exposed, heather-covered plateau at the northern end of the island is dotted with prehistoric burial cairns.
Situated a short climb uphill from the boat jetty, where a tractor collects your bags, is Bryher campsite. Despite boasting views of the harbour, Tresco Channel and Cromwell’s Castle to the east and the open Atlantic to the west, it still occupies a wonderfully sheltered spot between two higher hills. It’s tents only at this discreet site that blends effortlessly into the landscape of the island, though the recent addition of luxury bell tents means you can turn up with little more than a toothbrush and a sleeping bag and you'll get by. It’s undoubtedly a beautiful spot. But to really see the best side of this isle of contrasts, visit in the spring or summer when warm, sunny days turn the whole of Bryher into an idyllic island paradise.
The cosy Fraggle Rock (01720 422222), Scilly’s smallest pub, is just a few minutes’ walk down the hill towards the quay. The contemporary Hell Bay Hotel (01720 422947) has an outside bar deck overlooking the sea and outstanding local seafood in the restaurant and Crab Shack. Bar snacks are available at lunchtime and in the evening (reservations essential). Bryher Shop offers an excellent selection of food and drink, as well as freshly baked bread and pastries. You can also pre-order shopping to be delivered to the campsite on your arrival.