Contrary to misinformed quizmasters up and down the country, Land’s End isn’t Britain’s most westerly point; that claim belongs to the Isles of Scilly, a cluster of beautiful islands 28 miles off the coast of mainland Cornwall. Scilly is like nowhere else in England, only 5 of its 140 tiny islands are inhabited, with St Mary’s the largest and liveliest. With its breezy island atmosphere, solid community spirit and home to some of Europe’s most dazzling white-sand beaches, it comes as no surprise that campers find themselves drawn to these remarkable islands year after year.
Nestled on the peninsula between two of St Mary's' finest beaches (Porthcressa & Old Town) is Peninnis Farm, a 50-acre family-run farm that offers sustainable, five star glamping and spectacular coastal views. Set upon two fields, the site has seven thoughtfully positioned safari tents, all named after the islands' renowned gig boats. In keeping with the farm's serene surroundings, the tents are arranged to shelter guests from any prevailing winds, making the camping area a real suntrap. Glampers are advised to pack light as each abode comes fully loaded with a fitted kitchen, cooking facilities, wood burner, comfy sofas, outside decking area and a private bathroom with hot shower, sink and flushing toilet.
Whilst Scilly is probably best know for its pristine beaches, the islands offer a torrent of activities to keep every type of glamper busy. Visitors can hike, climb, cycle or learn to sail amidst clear blue waters; and that’s just for starters. Main courses include discovering the ancient ruins of Halangy Down, or visiting the few hardy souls that remain on Bryher and St Agnes islands. And why not round the menu off by discovering the islands unique flora and fauna on a wildlife tour.
Back at Peninnis Farm, the only sounds to disturb your deep slumber is the odd ‘oink’ from Margo the pig, or the merry giggles of children as they help collect freshly-laid eggs in the morning. While life back on the mainland can move at breakneck speeds, time in the Scillies seems content to stand still. And that’s just how we like it.
Contact the Sailing Centre (01720 422060) for a taster session or a full RYA course in sailing or windsurfing. The centre has a huge range of dinghies, day boats, kayaks and wetsuits for hire, with all ages and abilities catered for. Enjoy panoramic views of the islands as you explore St. Mary's on horseback with St Mary's Riding Centre (01720 423855.) Trot along white sandy beaches, and even paddle with your horse through the shallow, clear waters. Again, all levels of experience are welcome, and the centre's well-mannered horses will ensure you have a unique and memorable ride. Take a wonderfully scenic walk up to the remains of the ancient Bant's Carn Burial Chamber & Halangy Down Village. The tomb measures about 8 metres in diameter and stands on a low platform, separated from the burial chamber by a jamb. In this part of the world Gig Racing is a serious sport. Originally used to rescue survivors from shipwrecks, in May, these 32-foot wooden boats are now used in a strenuous weekly competition that makes the Oxford and Cambridge affair look rather tame. Take a ferry to neighbouring Tresco and visit the spectacular Tresco Abbey Gardens (01720 424108.) Founded by banker turned philanthropist Augustus Smith, the house and gardens now belong to his great-great-great-nephew, and are a flamboyant patchwork of exotic plants and trees, as well as the grave of former British prime minister Harold Wilson. “Kew with the roof off” as the novelist Walter Besant described it, is one of Scilly's most popular sights and well worth a visit.
There is no café or restaurant onsite, but guests can purchase tasty free-range eggs and locally-reared bacon and sausages from the farms honesty shop; perfect for an alfresco breakfast. Offsite, there’s plenty of eateries on St Mary’s Island including: Speros (01720 422521), a surf-shack style café with a lovely decking area overlooking Porthmellon Beach. The menu is varied and the daily specials (especially the fresh fish) are well worth considering. After a bike ride across St Mary's, Juliet’s Garden (01720 422228) is great choice for a spot of lunch. Enjoy the superb views whilst tucking into black tiger prawns with chilli, lime and coriander butter. In the summer be prepared for a wait, as it does get busy, but the views more than make up for it. The Mermaid Inn (01720 422654) is hidden away, but worth seeking out. This intimate, atmospheric restaurant serves fresh ingredients, imaginative dishes, and generous portions, all at great value. Follow in the footsteps of Prince Charles and make a reservation at the sixteenth century Star Castle Hotel (01720 422317.) Set in the Elizabethan grandeur of the officers’ dining room, this really is fine dining so take a credit card with plenty of capacity. With a bellyful, retire into the lounge with a brandy and discover some more of this unique location.
