Rocky peaks, winding inlets, and dozens of deserted beaches – welcome to the eerily beautiful Costa da Morte. Its fearsome name (meaning 'Coast of Death') stems from the constant clobbering the shoreline receives from the Atlantic, and countless shipwrecks that now litter the seabed. Wild, windy and often foggy, this unspoilt part of Galicia is not nearly as ‘touristy’ as the neighbouring regions to the south, yet boasts similarly beautiful coves, wide sweeping bays and tiny fishing villages huddled against dramatic headlands. Being off the beaten track won’t appeal to everyone, but we feel this sense of isolation and lack of large-scale tourism is all part of the appeal.
Located between the villages of Carballo and Malpica, in a lush forest of pine and eucalyptus trees is Camping Sisargas, the ideal starting point to explore Costa da Morte and beyond. This peaceful, family-run site offers 145 spacious plots (60m2), with shade and shelter on a comfortable lawn, dotted with small yellow flowers. You will never see tents side by side here. “We like the fact that people have their space” says Gema, one of the site's approachable employees. In fact being off the tourist trail means Sisargas rarely gets full, so campers have the luxury of choosing their very own pitch. Besides the campsite, there are six modern bungalows, five cosy Canadian huts and a plethora of first rate facilities, including a café, restaurant, free Wi-Fi, swimming pool, BBQ’s, tennis court and a playroom for rainy afternoons.
Whilst we’re on the subject of rain, if you spend a decent amount of time here you’ll probably get wet. That’s because the rain that’s supposed to fall mainly on the Spanish plain, actually drops on hilly Galicia. The weather is certainly unpredictable in these mystic parts, so when the sun is playing ball, days can be bright and sunny with a light you won't find anywhere else, and the nights chilly. But where exactly is Galicia? Well, think Portugal and up a wee bit. Or Ireland and down a lot, which isn't as daft as it sounds. On the far west of Spain's northern coast, Galicia is very much part of Europe's Celtic past. Mystical religion, rituals and that rugged coastline reveal its connections with Ireland, Wales and Scotland.
Back at Camping Sisargas the local area is surrounded by woodland paths (some paved, some not), which are great for walking, cycling or just getting lost. This is a very quiet site, so the owners politely request peace and quite from midnight till nine, ensuring the only sounds to be heard are birds chirping above, the wind whistling through the tall trees, and if you’re lucky, the squeak of a black squirrel. The atmosphere here is unbeatable: secluded, inviting and wonderfully natural. And after all, isn’t that what camping is all about?
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Calm, tranquil, well equipped
We are very pleased by this discovery
My partner and I were looking for a campsite where we could disconnect and relax, away from the busy sites full of permanent clients. We wanted to choose a cool place because we live in the Mediterranean and it was very hot already. This summer we were looking for long quiet stay in a not touristy place where we could hike and ride our bikes.
From our experience, in the summer we prefer the north. We are partners from ACSI and we like the campsites recommended by this guide. We decided to stay in Camping Sisargas because we believed it suited our purpose best. Malpica is not on the way to anywhere and it is not very touristy, despite the amazing nature of Costa da Morte.
We have been at Camping Sisargas for over a month with our caravan and are very happy. It is located in a beautiful setting and there is almost absolute calm. It never gets very full and the campsite is big, so you have a lot of personal space. There are amazing paths for walking and riding (but remember in Galicia everything is always uphill and downhill).
Gema and Pablo (the managers) are lovely and the cleaning lady is very effective: no matter what time you go to the sanitary block, it always seems as if you were the first person to walk in.
We are very pleased by this discovery we recommend.
We found this campsite to be very pleasant, the owners were lovely and there was plenty of room for our large 8m caravan in the woods under the trees. The toilets were lovely and clean, the showers were very warm and the camp site was very quiet and peaceful. We were able to buy bread and croissants in the morning.
We found the swimming pool to be a bit grotty and the restaurant to be basic. We drove to the nearest town, the 2km trail to town was far too steep to cycle and found the town very industrial and not worth spending any time at.
Our friends had booked a bungalow but it was nothing more than a painted metal porta cabin, there was one sofa bed with a very dirty stained sheet on it and double bed made up. The clean bedding in a box underneath consisted of some clean nylon sheets and very small child blankets, our friends were cold. The outside kitchen had 3 glasses and no mugs, very very basic at 75E per night. The camping huts were much smaller.
The smell of green
What surprised me most when I got to this campsite was its harmonious atmosphere. It is amazing that just a few people can create this energy. I realized that it was not only the staff, but also the Nature in its pure state that creates this climate.
I have spent two weeks full of peace and good sensations, surfing, climbing up the trees, hiking to the most wild and secluded beaches in the whole of Spain (please, help keep the secret), and eating empanada and pulpo, with a nice cold wine.
I have to mention the smell from the green, the eucaliptus, the pine trees, the smell from the sea and the viño and the meigas and all the ancient traditions.
This is all. Just discover by yourself
A beautifull place to stay
We stayed at Camping Sisargas for several nights in september last year an we really enjoyed our stay. The area is beautifull, the campsite is green, clean, has a perfect size (not to big/small). The owners, a young couple are friendly and can help you with whatever needs you might have (they speak several languages incl. German). Within a 30 min drive there are several good surfspots in the area (eg. Razo) and 4 us it was perfect to stay on that laid-back Camping after a day of surfing, enjoying a good meal from the restaurant.
The next Trip is planed and we are looking forward to stay on Camping Sisargas in August this year for at least some nights!
I stayed on this site from the 15th of June 2014 (opening day) with my wife, we spent four very peaceful and happy days here. The site was well run and the facilities were absolutely spotless. Small cafe/restaurant served good food at very reasonable prices and the staff were friendly and helpful. Also there was fresh bread available and bags of ice which is very handy if you don't hook up. The manager was an extremely friendly and helpful young man,Paulo, who went out of his way to ensure we had what we needed without being in any way intrusive.
The area is good for walking and the site had a lot of local information.
I have been holiday camping under canvas for some 45 years and this is one of my top ten sites. It would be nice to think I might find the time to go back some day.
Wonderful, laid-back camping
I've stayed in the Sisargas camping this summer for almost a week, and I've loved it. The camping is strategically located, so you can drive to the beaches of Costa del Muerte, Santiago de Compostella, and La Coruna. The restaurant has great food and is cheap. Waking up each morning and having my cafe con leche is something that I now miss a lot. Irene and I loved in particular the lighthouses and the light at dawn!
The camping is pretty international, and you can have Galcians mixing with Dutch and French people. The hosts are very friendly and helpful, so if you want to have a meaningful conversation, I suggest you should try them! One of the best experiences I had in a campus!