Situated along the Soca’s banks, not far from the quaint historical town of Kobarid, rests Kamp Koren. Vast yet chilled, the site is overseen by the passionate Lidija Koren, whose penchant for exploring the needs of camping folk seems peerless.
Lidija’s ‘baby’ was born two decades ago. It was originally started in partnership with her family, though she has been running (and expanding) it solo for the last 10 years. Having developed step by step, bit by bit, the site is subtly divided into sections and is deceptively sprawling. Past the wooden reception, the main camping area caters chiefly for caravans and larger family tents, but skirt left up the bank and you’ll find a charming wooded area made up of trees, fields, terraces and private camping pitches, all interconnected by natural walkways and wooden bridges.
In similarly subtle fashion, the site has incorporated an impressive array of features and facilities: an 8-metre climbing wall (plus a smaller one for little kids); volleyball court; boules pitch and viewing benches (cheekily ensconced in the wooded river bank); and, last but not least, separate loo blocks for the camping area.
Once you’ve snuggled into one of Koren’s cosy camping alcoves, you can start getting to know the local area. The Soca valley, an important trading route for many centuries and the site of some significant World War I frontline action, is today an outdoor enthusiast’s dream. To get an early taste, hike to the Kozjak waterfall (half an hour one way), tackle nearby peaks like Krasji Vrh or Krn (both solid three- to four-hour hikes) or hire a mountain bike and burn some rubber through the forest.
Nearby Kobarid is famous for the decisive battle between the Central Powers and the fascists in 1917, a scene immortalised by Hemingway in A Farewell To Arms. Today it’s a small but pleasant historic town with a smattering of decent eateries, cafés, grocers, a world-class museum on Slovenia’s role in the First World War and several places to arrange adventure sports. History buffs will enjoy the local history trail: a five-hour walk that takes in Roman archeological sites, waterfalls and World War I trenches.
It’s easier to arrange trips via Kamp Koren, however, since the site offers tailored tours for small groups exploring off-the-beatentrack spots such as cave complexes and traditional villages, as well as historic towns like Tolmin. The site can also arrange activities including mountaineering, Alpine climbing and paragliding, plus, of course, river-based shenanigans such as kayaking, rafting and swimming.
You definitely won’t get bored here, though you might get a little tipsy. An hour’s drive from the site will bring you to one of Slovenia’s best-known wine regions, Goriška Brda, which produces some very notable reds. Aim for the main town, Dobrovo, to check out the 17th-century Renaissance castle and its annexed stone-walled enoteca, which sells not only most of the local wine varieties but also the extremely tasty regional cheeses and meats.
Proactive as you might be, however, be warned that you may not get far past reception. This unassuming wooden hut is a marvel of hospitality, where charming Slovenian women cheerfully hand out everything from great coffee and on-tap beer to local information and Internet passwords. They can even order you a kebab from the local takeaway if you can’t be bothered to cook – now that’s Hipcamp.
