If the Black Forest is Germany’s dark secret, a place of goblins and ghosts and the occasional slice of devilish gateau, its easterly cousin, the Bavarian Forest, is all easy-going charm and woody innocence. The forest comprises a seamless landscape of undulating hills, winsome spa towns and dense woodlands, criss-crossed with comely copses and titillating trails for bikers, hikers and cyclists.
Located slap-bang in the centre of this leafy nirvana is Camping Schnitzmühle, arguably the which must be one of the coolest campsites in the country. It’s run by a pair of brothers who are determined to make the experience for campers (or “Modern Nomads”, as they like to call us) considered, comprehensive and cool. Sebastian and Kristian Nielsen, adopted their parents’ hotel business a few years back and have lovingly transformed it into a funky one-stop-shop for all things outdoorsy. Not only did they give the hotel’s interior a modernist makeover, they also overhauled the restaurant, added the capacious camping area, constructed an expansive spa and built a beach area around the site’s natural lake.
The Nielsen brothers’ rejuvenating spirit haunts the whole site, and in a good way. Its several acres, located right next to a pretty section of the Schwarzer Regen river, are green and airy, peppered with trees, bushes and flowers. Even without the funky extras it would be nice, but when you discover the delights of: the Bongo Bar (a thatch-roofed drinks bar surrounded by sand and deckchairs); Stonehenge (a cheeky replica of the great British landmark that doubles as an open fire and grill place); and the Group Camping section that has adventure facilities and experienced instructors leading rope-climbing, canoeing and mountain-biking escapades – well, it’s hard not to be impressed.
Being blessed with two rivers – the Regen and the Schwarzer Regen – means water- babies are going to feel totally at home here. Stroll around for a minute or two and you’ll find a lovely natural swimming spot and you can easily arrange canoe trips on site. A shuttle bus whisks you to a starting point and you make your own way back to Schnitzmühle. The surrounding area isn’t short of charming countryside or traditional towns and villages. Arnbruck, for example, is world famous for its superior glass production and “ein kaffee mit milch” in one of nearby Viechtach’s cafés gives insight into small-town Bavarian life.
Back at the site, if you don’t feel like stocking up on Weizenbier from the campsite shop and breaking out the barbie, take advantage of the hotel-restaurant, which combines Thai and Bavarian specialities. The nearby beach and lake, located along a path on the other side of the hotel, is the perfect place to cool off and sunbathe. And if you’re feeling even more indulgent, the spa is just a short hot-stone’s throw away.
The site can organise everything from canoeing and hiking, mountain-biking, cycling and tree-climbing tours. There’s a playground onsite with table-tennis tables, and you can swim in the lake. Another great option is the bobsleigh ride at the theme park Rodel Paradies (0049 99 65 1203), a 20-minute drive away. For a truly relaxing experience, try one of the many massages at Schnitzmühle’s spa. Take your pick from the Yanomami (with banana leaves – €72 for 75 minutes), the Espresso (a 15-minute quickie for €14) or the Absolute High Power Massage (55 minutes for €49).