It’s not hard to see exactly what Marianne Hessels fell for back in 1980. Equidistant from both the epic Atlantic coastline and the foothills of the Pyrénées, this one-time stud farm just outside the charming town of Salies-de-Béarn had her hooked at first sight. Today, thanks to the enterprising endeavours of this affable Dutch ex-pat, a sprawling slice of rural Aquitaine has been transformed into a campers’ paradise – the wonderful Domaine d'Esperbasque.
Campers really are spoiled for choice here. The five different fields (The Park, The Hill, The Vineyard, The Oak, The Sheep Meadow) all have a unique charm and character. Take the Hill, with its beautifully terraced grass pitches set aside exclusively for tents, which boasts panoramic views over the valley into Salies-de-Béarn. Or the more family-friendly Park field, shaded by mature trees and just a gentle canter from the nearby riding school – a vestige of the former farm’s equestrian heritage. They also offer bright and airy safari tents, complete with complimentary deck chairs that are perfect for reclining with a glass of wine from the neighbouring vineyard and soaking up the view. Indeed, wherever you pitch up in this spacious site, the views are unbeatable.
There's a relaxed, hippified air to Domaine d'Esperbasque. With plenty for the kids to do (from trampolining and boules to swimming and darts), mums and dads are free to soak up the pleasingly lazy pace of life from the scenic terrace. As the sun descends over the surrounding Pyrénées, painting the tranquil night sky in warming hues of purple and sunburst, you'll know exactly what so enraptured Marianne on that momentous day over thirty years ago.
Domaine d'Esperbasque is equidistant from both the Pyrenees and the Atlantic Ocean (both around 45mins drive away). The Bearn and Basque countryside boasts some stunning scenery and makes for a great hiking / biking trip. The lovely spa town of Salies-de-Béarn boasts several great restaurants, a golf course, and Salt Museum. The gorgeous colonial Spanish border city of Pamplona is just under 2 hour's drive away. For the slightly unhinged, the San Fermin Festival's world-famous 'running of the bulls' takes place every July 6th–14th. For those who don't manage to escape unscathed, the healing holy shrine of Lourdes is also just over an hour away.
In high season, the local baker comes with freshly-baked baguettes and croissants every day. During low season, Marianne makes her own bread. There's also pizza night once a week and nightly dinners varying from Indian to local French cuisine. You can buy lots of lovely local produce onsite too. The pick of the local options is La Belle Auberge (0033 559 38 15 28), a charming rural hotel and restaurant in the surrounding village of Castagnède. You can get 2 courses plus plenty of delicious sides for only €26. For refined regional cuisine, head for chic restaurant Les Voisins (0033 559 38 01 79) in Salies-de-Béarn. It's a little pricier than some of the other local eateries, but worth every penny. Marianne's neighbour, Lapeyre Guilhemas, also makes wonderful wine – pop next door for a visit and a glass or two. The region is also famous for its foie gras and pâté with around 90% of artisan duck farms residing here in southwest France.