‘When the weather is fine you know it’s the
time for messin’ about on the river. If you
take my advice there’s nothing so nice as
messin’ about on the river.’ You may find
these lyrics – or ones like them – ricocheting
around your head on more than one
occasion as you settle into this riverside
spot in the Gorges du Verdon – France’s
greatest natural attraction and the world’s
second largest gorge.
To save you the time with your map, the Gorges du
Verdon are about 12 miles (20 km) long and
300 metres deep. It's slap bang on the riverside that this expansive campsite is found, in the very heart of the Parc
Naturel Régional du Verdon. Covering some
17 acres and resting at a very pleasant
altitude of 660 metres, it’s a wonderfully
leafy place that’s dotted with pinewoods and
has all the hallmarks of a well-loved spot. The 100-odd pitches are flat and allow easy
access for vehicles, with ample space and plenty of natural shade from the
trees.
Being right on a river obviously creates a wealth of recreational
options. Without leaving the not-so-small
confines of the site, you can relax on the
beaches, try your hand at a spot of fly
fishing or organise rafting, canyoning,
canoeing, spring tide swimming or aquatic
walks. And if you’re not a big river swimmer
(the temperatures can get cool, especially
out of season) then don’t fret as the
campsite offers an alternative dip in
the shape of a heated, outdoor swimming
pool.
Other on-site activities include bowling,
boules and volleyball, as well as a library
and communal room with TV and video. Walking trips can be
organised free of charge from the site, and
the gorge’s limestone is a popular choice
with rock climbers, too – there are reckoned
to be anything up to 1500 routes around,
ranging from 20 metres to over 400 metres.
Just along the road is the charming
medieval town of Castellane. It’s instantly
recognisable by the gigantic rock that juts
dramatically skywards from the valley.
Aside from the 18th-century stone chapel (Chapelle Nôtre-Dame-du-Rock) that sits
atop, Castellane doesn’t have any tourist
sites as such, but it’s a perfectly charming
place to enjoy a stroll and
the best place to organise activities over a cafe au lait.
The regional park itself spans almost
500,000 acres and includes 43 towns within
its reach, so if you tire of lazing by the
river there’s plenty to keep you occupied in
the outlying regions. The French Riviera is just an hour and a half
away by car, but chances are you’re not
going to want to leave one
of Europe’s largest natural playgrounds in
any kind of hurry.