When author Robert Louis Stevenson penned Treasure Island, his colourful plot drew on a life peppered with interesting travels. Decades earlier, his adventures around the south of France inspired Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, a classic of outdoor literature. Meandering through the tree-clad mountains, Stevenson's idea of cool camping was definitely a little different from ours today, not least because his shabby homemade sleeping bag was so heavy a donkey was required to carry it, but all the same he knew a stunning location when he saw it – 'a smooth sandy ledge… the Tarn below… a thin fringe of ash trees… a faint sweet perfume which pervaded the afternoon air'. We couldn't have put it better ourselves. Stevenson captures the timeless beauty of this exact spot more than a century ago.
Of course things have changed a little since then and, while the Tarn still frolics through its sandy channel, the ash and Spanish chestnut trees are now a shady canopy for tents, riddled here and there. The idyllic setting Stevenson found is now a resting point for fellow travelers and Camping Chantemerle is the name it takes. Echoing the traits of the languid young wanderer, this riverside spot is unpretentious and relaxed, a campsite where time passes you by as gently as the water's flow.
Beneath ancient trees, camping pitches are spread around, indiscernibly divided from one another, all with electrical hookups if required. Around 25 of the 69 pitches are along the riverfront, though the rest still have easy access to the water, where a private sloping beach reaches down to the Tarn, deep enough for good paddling and bathing, though not quite enough for a proper swim. There's also a great swim hole at the far end of camp that's perfect for proper wild swimming. Choose between sunning on the beach beside an old bridge or hopping along the rocks that cluster on the riverbanks as you head upstream towards a deeper gorge. Head this way in the evenings to perch quietly on the bank to catch a glimpse of the resident beaver family, bobbing along in the water pushing branches on their noses.
Back at the campsite itself there is plenty to entertain, with an outdoor play area, table tennis and a pétanque court, along with an established bar/restaurant that is careful to avoid any holiday parkish car-crashes like karaoke nights and conga trains. Instead the humble, local food in a simple café setting reflects the personality of imitable owner Nicole and her friendly team, who make Camping Chantemerle the place that it is. French speaking, half German/half American there's no need to worry about any language barriers here. Warm, welcoming and full of local knowledge Nicole is the go-to person when you finally drag yourself away from the riverside and decide to explore the rest of the surrounding area. Ensconced in the Parc Nationale des Cévennes with picturesque rural settlements dotted amongst the hills, it is difficult to go wrong. Like our wayward traveller Stevenson, tie your laces, point your finger and go explore. A wondrous landscape awaits.
The first port of call is often The Gorges du Tarne, 5km away, a tumultuous section of the same river that slides lazily past the campsite – it's perfect for wild swimming. Cévennes Évasion Voyages Nature (0033 4 6645 1831), based in Florac, arrange walking via ferrata, rock climbing and spéléologie (potholing), while Canoe 2000 (0033 4 6648 5771) organise canoeing. Both operators have excellent English and guests of Chantemerle get a 10% discount at both. The stunning Cévennes National Park is full of natural wonder such as the vast Causses limestone plateaus (including Causse Méjean and Chaos de Nîmes le Vieux), the Aven Armand cave (0033 4 6645 6131), Jonte Gorge, Panorama du Roc des Hourtoux (0033 4 6648 5748), and the wild roaming Przewalski horses. For the best views, you can try paragliding with Antipodes Millau (0033 5 6560 7203), who are open all year round and organise trips from €70 per person. Back down on ground level, try the Dargilan caves in Meyrueis (0033 4 6645 6020), discovered in 1880 by a shepherd who was hunting a fox. A beautiful riot of ochres, yellows, saffron, and pinks, they are well worth a visit.
Freshly-baked bread and croissants are available from May to September at reception. There is an excellent bar/restaurant (La Bergerie) open throughout the entire season. Overlooking the river, it serves regional specialties as well as popular pasta dishes and pizza. This is not an onsite karaoke-style holiday bar but a surprisingly reputable spot and don't be surprised if local folk also turn up for the evening - always a good sign. That said, this is not a fine dining establishment but an unpretentious setting for enjoying some authentic French homecooking. For dining out, head to Florac, 4km away. Try probably the best crepes in the region at Au Pecher Mignon (0033 4 6645 1428) or if you really want to push the boat out, La Lozerette (0033 4 6645 0604) in Cocures (just 800 meters walk from campsite) serves refined French cuisine in a gorgeous setting. For those cooking back at camp should go via La Maison des Paysans (0033 4 6631 2207) for a wealth of local produce for sale and a small cafe inside.