Dramatic limestone gorges steal most of the tourist glory
along the Ardèche River. The famous Pont d’Arc – a rock arch spanning some 60
metres over the river – is splashed across the visitor’s pamphlets and kayaking
day-trippers pour down the river each the summer. Head upriver, however, into the
quieter beginnings of the waterway and the scene is altogether different. Rocks
and sandbars break up the space, making it unnavigable for canoes, and numerous
waterfalls spill their way down the valley to form natural pools that are
perfect for swimming. It is here, around five kilometres from the river’s
source in the Massif Central, that Camping Les Rives de L'Ardèche is found.
Set along a gently curving riverbank, with its own little
beach and paddling spot, Les Rives de L'Ardèche accommodates around 60 camping
pitches along with a small clutch of static mobile homes. Three different tiers
each provide a perfectly flat space for tents, while mature trees cast ample
dappled shade (welcome during the midday heat of summer). While the
best pitches are undoubtedly those right beside the river, being near the
reception block has its rewards; there’s free Wi-Fi, an ice-pack freezer, a
small shop and tourist information – plus you don’t have to walk far to collect
your freshly baked croissants in the morning.
Beyond the on-site entertainment – pétanque, ping-pong, a
playground and hours spent pool-hopping in the river – there’s plenty to do
nearby. Walk into the local village of Mayres for a bite to eat or hike further
into the hills behind the campsite. The surrounding area is all part of the Parc
Naturel Régional des Monts d'Ardèche, an area particularly famed for its
limestone caves and waterfalls. For the very best of the lot, though, leave the
limestone behind and drive the 40 minutes north to Cascade du Ray Pic, where
the River Bourges splashes its way over two ginormous waterfalls that have
formed on a dark volcanic rock that was once the longest lava flow in all of
France.