Au Bois Joli means ‘pretty wood’ and is a fine indication of where you’re heading with this site. Perhaps all woodland areas have their charm, yet there is a little extra magic about this one. Approaching Andryes down open and meandering roads which dissect vast farm-scapes and fields of sunflowers under rich blue summer skies, it is impossible to resist a smile. It also becomes increasingly obvious why Robert and Henriëtte de Vries elected to settle here, amid the cheerfully swaying branches.
Au Bois Joli was created with a sharply observed philosophy in mind: respect for nature, for peace of mind, and for a carefully nurtured atmosphere of goodwill. The site layout, its location, and ambience merge effortlessly towards this end, yet only a daily investment of hard work and passion maintains the balance. The camp is quietly adjusted around the campers all day, with the owner’s high expectations catapulting the site way ahead of ‘average’.
It has been awarded a prestigious Clef Verte for its ecologically sound methods and astounding reverence for nature. In turn, nature seems to be thanking Au Bois Joli, with Robert and Henriëtte proud to record each new winged visitor or blooming flower. More than a dozen varieties of orchid have blossomed on their watch and 61 different types of bird had paid a visit at the time of writing.
The consideration for the environment is also extended to their human guests. Parents on holiday with young children can often endure more work than relaxation, but Camping au Bois Joli tries to address this with a site grown for safety. A tree that lends itself to climbing has a stone-edged entrance guiding little climbers towards lower branches and soft wood chippings below. The ample play areas have the same soft precautions, with enough corners, obstacles, and hideaways to feed fertile minds.
Adults can luxuriate in the shade of mature trees or blister in the sun beside the pool, all the while soaking up epic views. At the highest point of the site a gate leads to a wild wood, for which access has been negotiated, and within moments it’s possible to be quite alone. Alternatively, the prepared welcome pack, tailored to the length of your stay, has suggestions for offsite activities that demand varying degrees of exertion.
It is difficult to be critical of a campsite like this given the high standards already achieved. But, as gushing praise in reviews is rarely trusted, a critical conclusion to this one follows: the grass needs combing, the trees are not symmetrical, and the site isn’t open all year. I suppose the latter could be construed as the only real shame.
One must-see is the astonishing contemporary construction of a medieval fort at Guédelon (00 33 3 86 45 66 66), roughly a 30-minute drive from the site, which is being built using only 13th-century tools and materials. Work began in 1997 and completion will be in about 2035. Auxerre, Avallon and Clamecy all have farmers’ markets once a week. The most remarkable market, really worth a visit, is the market of Toucy on Saturday morning, approximately a 40-minute drive away. The campsite is an official cycle kick-off point for the newly renovated paths beside the canal between Auxerre in the north and Clamecy to the south. This 38-mile (62-km) stretch is one of a total 500 miles (800 km) of canal being worked on. Vézelay, a world heritage site, is a short drive from the campsite and well worth exploring.
Auberge des Sources (00 33 3 86 41 55 14), beyond Druyes les Bellesfontaines, has a good reputation as does the warm and inviting 2 Pieces Cuisine (00 33 3 86 27 25 07) in Clamecy itself. The latter has a great candle-lit terrace on the junction of three pedestrian streets, with a family feel.