Every Sunday at Camp Sonnenberg the site’s owners (and friends) graciously bedeck themselves in traditional mountain livery and put on a performance. As the sombre drones echo around the site and the last rays of sun daub the summits of the surrounding Vorarlberg region, it’s impossible not to get that ‘I’m in Austria’ feeling.
At 600 metres above sea level, Sonnenberg – appropriately translating as ‘sunny mountains’ – is run by the Dünser family (Matthias and Beate), and has an air of tradition and meticulousness often lacking in other campsites. Tents and small caravans mingle on the site’s kempt terraces; a well-equipped reception eagerly takes care of all enquiries and a nearby bakery sells tasty, fresh German breads each morning; and the spotless facilities block sports baby-changing facilities, spacious washing and drying rooms plus Internet and library. But the best things about Sonnenberg are the views. The site is ringed by glorious peaks and no matter where you pitch you’ll be greeted each morning by the Silvretta in the south-east, the Rätikon to the south, the Lechtaler Alpen in the north… even the Swiss Alps can be spotted in the distance on a clear day.
The surrounding Vorarlberg region is easy to explore. Each valley has its own character, and every town its points of interest. Nüziders offers happy campers handy shops and eateries, though more interesting are Feldkirch (12 miles/20 km away), a medieval town full of young, hip types, and Bludenz (almost 2 miles/3 km away), the key activity town of the region where the five valleys meet. It provides the starting point for hiking, biking, skiing and snow-boarding. If you’re a bit of a chocoholic, you may be happy to hear that Suchard are based here, though strictly as an after-activity reward, of course – yeah, right.
The numerous local valleys include the Klostertal, Montafon, Walgau, Brandnertal and the nearby Grosses Walsertal, which UNESCO has designated a Biosphere Reserve. Options for outdoor pursuits are nigh-on infinite, and the great news for all hikers is that you can climb almost every peak without fancy equipment. Highlights include a hike up the ‘Matterhorn of Vorarlberg’, the Zimba Massif – a one- or two-day hike, depending how fast and how fit you are – and the must-see Lünersee, a crater lake 1,970 metres above sea level. If you’re not fond of walking, however, a cable car from Brand will get you most of the way without you feeling puffed out. And if you don’t wish to walk alone, the site also organises regular group hikes.
You can also drive down to the region’s picturesque capital, Bregenz (30 miles/ 50 km), which lies at the foot of the enormous Lake Constance (Bodensee). On the lake you can hire boats and bikes or hike up to the Pfänder (1,064 metres) for peerless views of the lake and surroundings. From here you can explore the Bregenzerwald, a gorgeous, relaxed region that’s all alpine dairies (including a dedicated ‘cheese route’, or Käsestrasse), chocolate-box villages and thoroughly modern eco-buildings.
Meanwhile, back at the site, you’ll find it easy to unwind on the grassy terraces, check your emails in your tent and enjoy the quietude as the sun dips and night descends on the mountains like a velvet duvet. If it’s Sunday, you already know what to do – sit back with a beer and enjoy the Alphorn dirge resounding through the evening air.
